Arctic Divide: Norway-Russia Border Strains Sámi Communities and Cross-Border Life

Nils Boine*, gazing across the Neiden Fjord in Norway's Finnmark county, observes the Neiden River, which splits around Skogerøya island, concealing a wealth of king crabs beneath its surface. His heritage traces back to the Sea Sámi, an Indigenous coastal people whose ancestral lands, Sápmi, span northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia's heavily militarized Kola Peninsula. For generations, Sea Sámi families have fished these Finnmark fjords. However, the waters are not only divided by currents but also by a national boundary fixed between Norway and Russia in 1826, bisecting Sámi communities for two centuries.

Today, this Arctic region is a mosaic of Sámi, Norwegians, Finns, Ukrainians, Russians, and seasonal international workers. While the majority of the Sámi population resides in Norway, approximately 2 percent live in Russia. A cross-border lifestyle, historically supported by flexible policies like a Norwegian-Russian agreement permitting visa-free travel within 30km of the border, has become increasingly complicated. Security has tightened significantly since Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine, with Finnmark viewed as NATO's exposed northern flank, directly opposite the heavily armed Kola Peninsula. The Norwegian border town of Kirkenes has become a focal point in a spy war with Russia, evidenced by the apprehension of Russian operatives posing as tourists and fishermen for espionage. Consequently, border bureaucracy is now a daily reality, impacting reindeer herding, language revitalization, and hunting traditions through permits and regulations, leading to a fractured Arctic infrastructure.

Boine laments the cessation of visits to friends in Russia and weekend trips, a consequence of both solidarity with Ukraine and safety concerns following President Vladimir Putin's invasion in February 2022. He cites the recent arrest of a Kirkenes businessman in Russia, allegedly for “possession of weapons or ammunition,” as a cause for fear among locals, particularly given the prevalence of recreational hunting in the region and the risk of accidentally carrying ammunition across the border. The number of Russian tourists in Norway has plummeted from 250,000 in 2019 to 52,000 last year, impacting local businesses. While Boine's tourism company, with 80 percent of its clientele from Asia or Finland, has weathered the storm, many shops have suffered significant income loss, with several forced to close.

The fragmentation of communities, deeply rooted in cross-border connections, is a growing concern for both the regional economy and Sámi culture. Geopolitical tensions have put friendships on hold, with individuals in Russia expressing fear of repercussions for any perceived misstep or contact. Henrik Hoffmann, an expat who relocated to Kirkenes in 2021, co-founded Kirkenes Tours and works with Sámi herders and on hiking trails near the Norwegian-Russian border. He acknowledges the initial nervousness of navigating the border, which is marked by posts and clearings, and the strict rules, including heavy fines for touching markers. Tourists have been fined for throwing stones across the border. The landscape, though seemingly desolate, is heavily surveilled with watchtowers and cameras. Hoffmann frequently encounters Norwegian military patrols and Sámi-owned reindeer, identified by traditional branding and earmarks.

Sámi herders employ ancient practices like earmarking and modern technology such as GPS trackers for reindeer management. However, GPS reliability has been compromised by jamming and spoofing in the border region, affecting navigation for aircraft and rendering reindeer trackers inaccurate. Russian interference has reportedly targeted lower elevations, increasing risks for hikers and herders. Hoffmann now relies on a satellite phone, and many herders have switched to GSM trackers due to GPS unreliability. Predators, including a growing brown bear population that crosses freely between Russia and Norway, pose an increasing threat to reindeer, exacerbated by declining cross-border conservation efforts and damage to reindeer fences. Norwegian authorities are investing heavily in border surveillance, with plans for a Finnmark Brigade by 2033.

Wildlife, however, disregards geopolitical boundaries. The Pasvik River, a natural border, freezes in winter, creating an icy bridge for wildlife and a concern for Sámi herders whose reindeer may wander into Russia. Reindeer fences, traditionally made of wood, are vulnerable to snowdrifts, allowing reindeer to cross into Russia. Despite intensified efforts to prevent livestock from crossing, including fence repairs, some herders remain skeptical, noting that reindeer will continue to cross regardless of political situations, emphasizing the need for cross-border cooperation.

Traditional Sámi handicraft, known as duodji, is intrinsically linked to reindeer herding, local materials, and border exchange. Historically, Sámi artisans could easily trade goods across the region. However, current border restrictions hinder the movement, sale, and display of Sámi-made goods, impacting the material foundation of Sámi culture. The Sámi Parliamentary Council advocates for simplified customs and VAT rules for handicrafts. Sanctions on Russia have further complicated cross-border cooperation for Indigenous peoples. Duodji objects, such as antler handles and leader pouches, not only preserve heritage but also make Sámi culture visible.

Language revitalization is another critical challenge. Centuries of colonization and policies like Norwegianisation have impacted Sámi languages, with several, including Akkala Sámi, now extinct. The 1826 border demarcation severely affected Skolt Sámi lands, leading to a linguistic split. With fewer than 1,000 Skolt Sámi speakers remaining across Norway, Finland, and Russia, cross-border cooperation is vital for language preservation. The Sámi Parliament Council supports initiatives like the Skolt Sámi Year of Culture and advocates for the recognition of Skolt Sámi as an official language in Norway. The council aims to dismantle border obstacles, ensuring that state security measures do not violate Indigenous rights and that Sámi communities are integrated into national security and emergency preparedness forums.

Despite increased defense activity in the North due to geopolitical tensions, the Norwegian government emphasizes consultation with Sámi representatives. However, calls for national recognition of Skolt Sámi and Sámi representation in national security forums remain unaddressed. For those living on the frontier, survival has long depended on mutual care and community resilience, exemplified by shared recreational shelters and a determination to preserve everyday life. Kirkenes, a multicultural Arctic outpost, continues to host tourists and maintain a diverse population, including Ukrainian refugees who find work due to their Russian language skills. The annual Barents Spektakel festival, themed