Navigating Beauty During Breast Cancer Treatment: Essential Product Advice and Ingredient Warnings

For many women, maintaining familiar routines, including their beauty and skincare regimens, can provide a crucial sense of stability and control amidst the upheaval of a cancer diagnosis and treatment. Azza Mohammed, a breast cancer survivor, shared, “For me, maintaining my skincare routine was a way of looking after myself and holding on to a sense of normality during a challenging time. Throughout my treatment, I continued taking care of my skin and never allowed the illness to take away my sense of self or negatively affect my outlook on life.” Simple acts like using a rich cream for dry skin, an oil for brittle nails, or a balm for chapped lips require minimal effort but can significantly boost mental well-being and self-esteem.

Dr. Parisa Khonsari at Sequoia Clinic in Dubai emphasizes the importance of these routines, stating, “I think it's incredibly important, and not just for the skin. Going through breast cancer treatment can be physically and emotionally exhausting. On top of dealing with the diagnosis and treatment itself, women may experience hair loss, changes in their skin, weight fluctuations, surgical scars and changes in how they recognise themselves in the mirror.” She further noted, “I think we sometimes underestimate how much that can affect someone's confidence and emotional well-being. For many women, skincare, make-up or going to the salon is more than just a beauty routine. It's a little bit of normality. It's something familiar that they enjoy, and something they still have control over when so much else feels outside their control.”

Cancer treatments impact the skin by affecting rapidly dividing cells, compromising the skin barrier, and causing inflammation. Dr. Catherine Borysiewicz, an onco-dermatology specialist, explains that treatments weaken the skin barrier, leading to dryness, itching, roughness, and painful cracks. They also affect hair and nails and alter immune and cellular pathways in the skin. Chemotherapy can cause hair loss, nail changes, and hand-foot syndrome. Radiotherapy often results in radiation dermatitis, ranging from mild redness to severe skin reactions. Targeted therapies may cause acne-like breakouts and nail fold inflammation, while immunotherapy can lead to intense itching and eczema-like rashes. Hormone therapies can induce menopausal skin changes such as dryness, thinning, and loss of elasticity.

Patients are advised to be cautious with certain beauty product ingredients. Dr. Ankita Tuknayat, dermatology specialist at Aster Clinic, recommends modifying or postponing treatments like deep tissue sculpting, Botox, dermal fillers, aggressive chemical peels, lasers, high-intensity focused ultrasound, and even manicures or pedicures during active breast cancer treatment. Those with neuropathy should be careful with hot water and heated foot spas. Ingredients like fragrances and essential oils in perfumed products can irritate compromised skin, while alcohol-based products can cause further dryness. Facialist Rosie Osbourne suggests avoiding retinoids, strong exfoliating acids, benzoyl peroxide, and fragrances or essential oils. Some women also opt to avoid parabens or plant oestrogens, especially with hormone-sensitive cancers. Osbourne stresses the importance of simplifying routines and consulting with an oncology team. Packaging that minimizes bacterial contamination, such as pumps and tubes, is also preferable when skin is fragile.

Fadwa Hussein, a breast cancer survivor, adapted her self-care routine by using an eyebrow pencil after losing her eyebrows and opting for minimal makeup. During radiation therapy, she used baby shampoo brands like Johnson’s and Sebamed as recommended by her doctor.

Self-care, including spa treatments, can be beneficial during cancer treatment. Salina Handa, founder and creative director of Sensasia spas, notes that facials are often a good starting point, offering a calming experience where the client is cared for. Gentleness and adaptation are key; treatments are modified to suit the client's needs, using fragrance-free products and avoiding heat or work on sensitive areas. Some spas, like Jumeirah's Talise Spa, offer specialized spa rituals and massages designed for individuals undergoing cancer care, in collaboration with brands like Ground. These adapted treatments focus on supportive positioning and gentle techniques.

Products formulated specifically for women undergoing cancer treatment often focus on barrier repair, are fragrance-free, and contain minimal ingredients. Osbourne recommends trusted options like La Roche-Posay Cicaplast, Avene Cicalfate+, and Aquaphor, along with a creamy cleanser, ceramide-rich moisturizer, lip and cuticle balm, and daily mineral SPF. Dermo-cosmetic brands are increasingly offering oncology-focused ranges, but Borysiewicz emphasizes that the key is a gentle, well-tested formulation and a consistent routine, ideally initiated before treatment begins.