Dubai Fashion Week Opens with Palestinian-Greek Label Nafsika Skourti Championing Sisterhood and Empowerment

Dubai Fashion Week commenced its spring/summer 2027 season, signaling that the region's fashion aspirations reach far beyond the catwalk. The event featured shows and presentations from a diverse range of designers, underscoring the significant role of the Middle Eastern market in the global fashion landscape.

A standout moment on the second day was the Dubai Fashion Week debut of the Palestinian-Greek label Nafsika Skourti. The brand, founded by sisters Nafsika (creative director) and Stephanie Skourti (business lead), concluded the day with a runway show titled 'Sisters by Choice.' Backstage, Nafsika Skourti shared her inspiration: "I was thinking that there is no official way to celebrate your friends ... and the energy really matched having a happy protest." She elaborated on the show's empowering slogans, such as 'No Wrong Turns' and 'Sisters by Choice,' which resonated deeply with her.

The Nafsika Skourti collection marked a return to the runways after a nine-year absence. The designs featured a relaxed aesthetic, focusing on daytime silhouettes crafted from light, easily wearable fabrics. Nafsika described the collection as an exploration of "daywear, more activewear, and really leaning into the busy women we are." Stephanie explained the brand's strategic shift away from occasion-wear, noting, "Anyone who has been following the brand will notice that we used to do high and low before, and now it’s a lot more intentional, while at the same time, staying true to our brand codes, like corsetry and detailing." This evolution was evident in pieces like sleeves and skirts trimmed with ribbons, open-back tops made from woven beading, and the incorporation of roomy floral skirts and sporty zip-through tops. The resulting garments were lightweight and designed for movement, prioritizing the demands of contemporary women's lives. In contrast to the many shows presenting beautiful yet restrictive evening wear, this collection felt refreshingly revolutionary.

The designers' heritage also played a significant role. "Where we are from is something we are always thinking about and exploring. We feel very Arab. We grew up in the Middle East,” Stephanie Skourti stated.

The week's runway program opened with Kuwaiti designer Yousef Al Jasmi, known for dressing high-profile clients like Lady Gaga. His collection embraced theatrical excess with crystal-encrusted dresses, cascading crystal embellishments, and sculpted bodices paired with sheer skirts. The palette transitioned from nude to dramatic black, with designs intended to capture light from every angle.

Following Al Jasmi was self-taught designer Sara Pedram, whose collection, 'Simurgh,' drew inspiration from the 12th-century Persian epic poem, The Conference of the Birds. Pedram's work explored themes of transformation, spirituality, and Persian cultural heritage through sculptural silhouettes. The show opened with a ballerina and featured sheer creations with wing-like shoulder extensions. A richly embellished burnt-amber gown was followed by a cascade of shimmering paillettes, and a Prussian-blue velvet gown displayed a Swarovski-crystal Tree of Life on its train. A striking, voluminous creation in rough hessian, hand-painted with a scene inspired by Persian poet Hafez, exemplified the collection's personal significance for Pedram. "Simurgh is a legendary bird that represents rebirth, transformation and rising again," Pedram explained backstage. "This collection is very personal to me, especially this year. Fashion is more than a beautiful dress; I love to explain the story behind each piece.”

Indian designer Pallavi Puri presented 'Beyond Borders,' a collection celebrating cultural exchange through a wardrobe designed for women across the region. Drawing inspiration from her family and friends, Puri reinterpreted traditional Indian beadwork for a modern audience, citing Emirati, Asian, and Moroccan women as key inspirations. Equestrian motifs were also prominent, reflecting Dubai's culture and Puri's personal fascination with horses. Indian model Lisa Haydon opened the show, and Lebanese actress Cyrine Abdel Nour closed it in an embellished bridal look. Puri highlighted the collection's cross-cultural message: "Did you realise one is from India and one is Arab? My show is Beyond Borders, so it is about mixing and coming together." Haydon expressed her excitement about participating in Puri's debut show at Dubai Fashion Week.

Closing the evening was Kresha Bajaj, returning with a collection that highlighted her signature beadwork. The embellishments were applied to daywear, including delicate crocheted tops and street-style tank tops, and also formed striking zebra-skin patterns. As the collection moved into evening wear, the embellishments became more elaborate, creating latticework and flowing designs.

Prior to the runway shows, a showroom in Dubai Design District offered a preview of emerging global talent and introduced designers to the UAE market. Among them were Bahrain's Touchless, known for its 3D-printed handbags, and Egyptian jeweller-turned-eyewear designer Amr Saad, who presented bespoke gold and silver frames. Tunisian footwear label Balga showcased sculptural heels inspired by traditional metalworking techniques, and Kuwaiti designer Kochylia offered a refined take on wardrobe classics.