Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027: Fourteen Defining Shows

Paris Fashion Week was less about mere spectacle this season and more about defining house identity. Across the spring/summer 2027 collections, designers engaged with the core codes of their brands, focusing on couture craftsmanship, archival references, eccentric styling, and wearable clothing. From lightness at Hermes and Dior to romanticism at Elie Saab, everyday couture at Balenciaga, and individuality at Valentino and Dries Van Noten, the overarching question in Paris was what a fashion house should stand for today.

Hermes
Nadège Vanhée embraced lightness for spring/summer, drawing inspiration from ceiling fans. The collection featured swooping pleats in leather blazers, suede skirts, and orange dresses, alongside perforated suede jackets and open-knit dresses layered over statement underwear. Silhouettes remained breezy with wide-leg trousers in featherweight denim, paired with pared-back accessories like flat leather boots and small bucket bags.

Elie Saab
Elie Saab channeled the glamour of 1930s film star Jean Harlow alongside early-2000s codes. The romantic collection featured sheer layers, intricate embroidery, and a soft palette of blush, powder blue, sage, and sand in slip dresses with appliqué flowers. Saab explored the brand archive in Beirut, and the house is launching an H&M collaboration.

Celine
Michael Rider mixed Parisian polish with sportswear and bohemian ease, presenting a collection of creamy whites, hay tones, and tomato red. Outfits featured collarless leather capes, off-the-shoulder tops, delicate knits, and slouchy trousers, accented by a floor-length sundial-print dress and artisanal beaded knitwear.

Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli applied atelier techniques to democratic clothes like T-shirts, jeans, and leather jackets. External stitching structured ready-to-wear pieces, while a pale-pink taffeta ballgown revealed itself upon closer inspection to be an enormous T-shirt, proving that couture can be worn on the street.

Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry returned to essentials following a social media detox on the US East Coast. The spring collection featured sharp separates, a largely monochrome palette, and dramatic pieces like a backward tuxedo dress with hourglass boning, alongside broderie anglaise and archival embroidery.

Valentino
Alessandro Michele turned his spring show at the Bibliotheque Sainte-Genevieve into a celebration of books and eccentricity. Combining double-pleated jeans and baseball caps with fuchsia satin, oversized rosettes, and jewel-toned bustiers, Michele championed the human impulse behind fashion against an increasingly algorithmic world.

Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann brought a sense of freedom, danger, and decadence to Tom Ford by introducing racy swimwear alongside sharp tailoring, cashmere, and silk. Suits in baby blue, black, olive, and white were worn bare-chested or with plunging swimsuits and silk robes.

Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney looked to marine life, opening with David Attenborough's voice and utilizing dolphin graphics, wave motifs, and a rock-pool palette. The collection incorporated sustainable practices through deadstock fabrics, recycled polyester, lab-grown wool, and protein-based materials.

Balmain
Antonin Tron drew on Mark Shaw's 1954 backstage photographs inside the former Left Bank mansion of Karl Lagerfeld. The collection recast mid-century silhouettes with animal prints, eel skin, wet-look fabrics, corsetry, and strong-shouldered pilot jackets.

Dries Van Noten
Julian Klausner explored the personal logic of a wardrobe assembled over time, layering sequinned blouses over casual button-downs and cocktail dresses over rugby shirts. The eccentric looks were completed with mismatched jewelry and a single hot-pink racing glove.

Maison Margiela
Glen Martens focused on stripping Margiela back to its 1980s contradictions. The collection mixed hard and soft elements, featuring 1960s-style brocades, tailored ski trousers, and trenches with rigid balcony-like inserts alongside metal-fronted gowns and baroque draping.

Dior
Jonathan Anderson introduced lightness and air as a material through lace, silk mousseline, and organza at Dior. Fluid tailoring, asymmetric florals, and playful accessories—such as a silver minaudiere shaped like a wenwan walnut—marked the designer's evolving language.

Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello presented a gilded finale collection steeped in house history, referencing Yves Saint Laurent's 1991 Rive Gauche collection. Set against the glittering Eiffel Tower with a performance by Charlotte Gainsbourg, the show featured metallic trenches, cocktail dresses, and vertiginous stilettos.

Matieres Fecales
Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran staged a political show titled The 99 Per Cent at Place de la Republique. Featuring 99 looks on 99 models of colour, the show translated activism into a fashion spectacle as the second chapter following their previous collection about the wealthiest one per cent.